See ... Vienna in Winter

I'm lucky. Very lucky. I've been blessed with the opportunity to spend my Erasmus Study year abroad, here in Vienna, Austria. You've heard of it, no doubt. Some mildly famous characters such as Mozart and Haydn were locals. You may also have heard of the national dish. "Wiener Schnitzel" I believe it's called. No? Yeah, me neither. 

However, there are many reasons I chose Vienna, the most important of them being how lively and vibrant Vienna becomes during the long, dark and often depressing winter days. I'd had just come from an Argentinean winter when I arrived here in September and a whole year of winter wasn't exactly appealing. Although the Viennese thrive in winter. Ask anyone in a café drinking a "Melange" or someone shopping near Stephansplatz. They get excited for the prospect of snow, gluehwein, frosty air and "eislaufen". 

Here's a quick "Top 5" of reasons to visit this mecca of culture, music and snow in the winter months.

#5:  Vienna State Opera

Ah yes. The Staatsoper [State Opera] is a major attraction year round for many tourists to Vienna and the Viennese take it rather seriously themselves. On any given night, there shall be a near to sold out performance of a ballet or opera. Many of the Debutante Balls are held in the Opera House also. While there are cheeky ways of seeing the show at a reduced rate, tickets range from 25e to 250e [for the créme de la créme of seats]. The dress code is just as serious as the price. The locals always come dressed to kill and wouldn't look out of place as extras in a Bond film. We're talking tuxedos, suits, floor-length gowns, fur coats, cigar cases, even the children look as if they are off to their own first ballet recital.  

The Staatsoper is actually closed between June and September so by the time the evenings are getting darker, Vienna really is in the swing of it. Performances in Winter include some exceptional shows. I've seen "Dornroeschen" [Sleeping Beauty] and "La Sylphide" here. Operas such as "La Traviata" and "Madama Butterfly" also have runs here. There are many children's performances of "The Magic Flute" and "Aladdin" which remove the seats and formalities normally present and instead give an interactive show full of shocks and surprises. It's quite a sight to see, once the performance is over, all the finely dressed couples dressed to the nines on the Staatoper's steps, huddled closely together against the bitter cold. Like something from a different time and certain to catch the attention of any romantics out there.

#4: Punsch and Gluehwein

You can't but notice the smell of cinnamon and mulled wine in the air around November and December.  The smell whafts from every stand in the Christmas markets and outside most U-Bahn stations. It's intoxicating and with an array of flavours, you'll have no trouble finding the one that makes you feel the cosiest and warm. My personal favourite was Orange and Rum Punch but each Gluehwein [Mulled wine] stand carries 3 - 10 flavoured punches and wines. Be aware however of the Cup deposit [Glaspfand]. Many places have special commeraitve cups which they charge a deposit of 2-3.50e on top of the drink price. If you wish, you can keep the cup as a souvenir. If not, simply return it after you have finished and they will hand you back your deposit. A clever way of extra income for the sellers.
Word of warning though: Don't drink more than 2 punches if you are driving! They aren't shy on the alcohol content.

#3: Ice Skating
The Viennese have been ice-skating since before they could walk and they take to it like ducks to water. Ice-rinks start popping up around the beginning of November in places like Stadtpark and Stadthalle. These are basic rinks, sometimes with a DJ spinning tracks in the middle but nothing compares to the wonder that is "Wiener Eistraum" (Viennese Ice Dream) which is placed from January to the beginning of March outside of the Rathaus (Town Hall). Every year it changes but it is an absolute treat to skate. It has two rinks at opposite ends of the area and between them, the organisers have basically paved all the walkways of this park as ice. When one leaves one rink, you must skate along spinning paths and circles, up and down, side to side before skating down a gentle incline to the opposite rink. Each year it changes some bit but many say this year has outdone itself. A city radio station broadcast from the rink, providing an often cheesy soundtrack but it's a lot of fun. While there are always the show-offs, people generally don't notice if you can barely move forward without slipping on your arse and if you so do (which may or may not have happened to the author of this piece), there will always be a friendly hand offering you assistance.  It costs 6e for most adults and 6.50e for ice-skate hire. Tip: Go at night when the lights are on. Much more atmospheric. 
If you are in Vienna for a longer period of time, definitely invest in your own pair of skates which can be picked up for about 20e in most second hand shops. You will certainly get the wear out of them. On any given frosty day in any of Vienna's many parks or river walkways, you will see families and couples skating on the water surface without a care in the world.

Courtesy of facebook.com/vienna

#2: New Year's Eve

Silvester a.k.a. New Year's Eve is one hell of a celebration in Vienna. An estimated 1 million visitors pack into the inner city but around the Ring that surrounds the centre, there is a trail of events and stages. Whatever your tastes in music, Vienna has it sorted. In Stephansplatz, there is waltzing. Feel free to join in. At Rathaus, some of Austria's best known personalities take on an array of personas as they perform all the hits from the 60's, 70's and 80's. Heldenplatz is the base for many people to watch the fireworks but literally, as you turn around at 12, there isn't an inch of the sky that isn't completely taken up with amazing fireworks. There is a wonderful buzz in the air and people are so joyous, it's contagious. A great place to spend New Year's whether you are with friends or alone.

#1: Christmas Markets
What would Vienna be without the dozens of Christmas markets that spring up at the end of October and last all the way to Christmas Eve? An estimated 3 million visitors visit the Christmas markets in the run-up to Christmas and with good reason. No matter what time of day, there is always a group of people there, wandering from stand to stand, wrapped up, drinking gluehwein with friends at stalls pumping Christmas songs and decorated with rows  upon rows of fairy-lights. The smell of cinnamon is everywhere with bakery stalls full of Sacher Torte, Langos, Krapfen as well as cannisters of roasted chestnuts [Maroni] and potato wedges. Some markets like the one hidden in the alleyways behind Museumsquartier are for the food junkies whereas the Christkindlmarkt at Rathaus is for the tourists, selling everything from Christmas baubles to fine scarves, pottery to puppets. The lights that come with the markets illuminate the otherwise dull winter skyline and one of the greatest pleasures is strolling the market, gluehwein in hand and krapfen in mouth. With so many to chose from, you are sure to find the Christmas market for you, whether it is on the University campus, in front of Schoenbrunn castle, beside the famous Karlsplatz Church or in front of the grand Rathaus. Tip: Don't hang around until January when they are gone. It's quite sad walking around with them.

Presenting Vienna's Best Cupcakes

Living in a capital city, everyday brings a new discovery. One of the best ones we've come across here in Vienna is "Cupcakes Wien". Situated on a lengthy street off Dr. Karl-Renner-Ring, "Cupcakes Wien" is the kind of sugarsweet store that actually stops people in their tracks when they pass by - even joggers! 

As you enter, the smell of cake mix baking is everywhere and completely mouth-watering. The team of women,who are responsible for this enterprise, bake the cupcakes themselves right in front of you so you know that they are the real deal. The cake mix itself is amazing to taste but the winner is the icing. Oh man, the icing. I'm an icing junky. Cakes just aren't the same without it. The variety of cupcakes is astounding but the icing is even more impressive. It is literally perfect. It's a pity to even want to eat one. Here are some of their big sellers;

Oreo Cupcake

Red Velvet Cupcake

Schoko Orange Cupcake

Caramel Cupcake

Chocolate Mousse Cupcake

Banana Cupcake

Blueberry Cupcake

White Chocolate Cupcake

Retailing at €3.90 each but you may also order in bulk at a cheaper price. Considering they are baked everyday, they go stale within 24 hours so really you'd have to come to Vienna to enjoy them. They even offer a Cupcake Course for kids. How fun would that be?

Bless.

For further information if you live in and around the Vienna area, check out their website:

http://www.cupcakes-wien.at/

NOM.

S

We're Back Swinging!

Megan and I take our lives in our hands, swinging above Vienna City, March 2012.

So we've returned ... kind of! Ciara has shown signs of life as she heads into the final few weeks of her degree. That is indeed a terrifying thought but one I'm SURE you will take as it comes. No better woman to be fair. It takes a lot to get you pulsed. I can't believe you're nearly a teacher! It literally seems like yesterday when we were all at our school graduation, singing "Alright" by Supergrass. Some tune! Now where's Megan's post...?

This post is born out of love for the blog and all our friends who haven't a clue what we are up to. That's what it should be. Alas, it's really just a terribly poor concealment of my impressive procrastination. Dee and I have a thesis due on the 26th. I have just received my first piece of feedback from my supervisor which has basically told me to rethink the whole direction of the project. Just dandy. So did I sit down, really scratch my head and use all my brainpower to come up with a new plan? Not at all. I made dinner, watched Jonathan Ross (which included a frightening picture of Simon Cowell as a teenager) and logged on here for the first update in jaysus, nearly 3 months.

Frightening, isn't it?

Have I made the right decision? Yes. Will this help me in graduating and getting my degree? Absolutely not.

Let's get to it so.

December:

I went home for one week in December. I hadn't originally planned to do this when I left Ireland in September but at that stage, the idea of spending Christmas alone in my room, turkey-less, was just too depressing. And I missed my mummy. Obviously. In order to travel the 1,111 miles (exact) from Vienna to my home-town, I had to take an U-Bahn about 500 million stops (slight exaggeration), hop on a bus to Slovakia (you could go your life without visiting there, ehrlich gesagt) and get on a plane to Dublin. Easy, right? 

Well, it was until I was going in through security and they stopped me. They opened my meticulously packed backpack and proceeded to dump some presents that I had bought for my mother right in front of me. Apparently things like jam and jars of olives count as "liquids". Psssssssssh. Scrooges. 

A hop, skip and some air turbulence later, I landed in Dublin. The feeling I had flying in over Dublin Bay and Howth was just pure excitement. The fun part started when I landed. I landed at 7.20pm. The last train home to Cork was at 9. It took one hour for the bus to get through Dublin City Centre. I had to get to the train station at 8.45pm.  Meaning, I needed to find the bus before 7.45pm. Thus I had about 20 minutes to disembark the plane, run through the labyrinth that is Terminal 2 and find the Airbus stop. Of course being 4 days before Christmas, it was jammers AND it would so happen to be my luck that a New Zealand Under 21's rugby team had just arrived and were going through security at the same time. I didn't even have time to appreciate their battered faces and mangled cauliflower ears. More's the pity.

 I ran through the Arrivals gate, feeling quite melancholy and woebegone as I saw all the families eagerly awaiting loved ones with big banners. Mine obviously weren't there. To add to the bittersweet moment of arrival on Irish soil, there was a brass band playing beautiful Christmas carols to my left. Still, I dashed onwards as I frantically checked the time. 7: 32pm. I looked left. I looked right. And there it was. Right across the road, the luggage doors closing. There was no pedastrian crossing and a long barrier stood there, blocking a clear path to the bus door. Did that stop me? No siree. 

I had a Forrest Gump moment and literally legged it across the road, dodging traffic and lunged over the barrier. I clambered onto the bus, paid my six euro and scurried upstairs to a find a seat and recuperate. Which I did. For the next 5 minutes. As the bus waited there. 

Finally, we got underway and I found that I wasn't the only one returning home after a substantial period of time. There were two lads in front of me, exhausted from a full 30 hours of travelling. Based on the size of their backpacks and their plans to sit home and do nothing for the next 2 months except watch GAA and eat Taytos, I gathered that they had been in Asia. Driving through the inner city, Dame Street, O'Connell Street, Westmoreland Street, was just the best welcome home I could have asked for. All the Christmas lights were up and the view from a double decker bus is quite a different thing altogether from the view down below. There was a buzz which hadn't been present in Vienna.  I arrived into Heuston Station at 8.40pm and even had time to indulge in the great Irish tradition of .... Supermac's. Oh yes. Now Supermac's isn't Maccy D's, nor is it Burger King. It's just Supermac's. If you want a good greasy burger and a curry cheese chip (or garlic cheese chip if you're from the country), look no further. 

Yet, when I was queueing I noticed something unusual. I saw to my left a woman and her son and  from the way that they were signing to each other, it was clear that they were deaf. Whenever I see someone with a clear disability such as deafness or blindness, I always have the utmost respect for them and try and place myself in their shoes for a few minutes. I always think about how much more complicated the simple task I may be doing and have taken for granted,  is for that person and how it presents a unique variety of difficulties. So I was there, wondering how the lady was going to order her food in a very busy fast food restaurant. Maybe she would write it down. Maybe she could say it. I was furiously thinking how I would do it. And out of nowhere came a worker in Supermac's who saw the woman signing to her son, asking him his order, and then the employee began signing at her. For two minutes, I watched amazed. I had never seen anything like it. It was lovely to see and has made me determined to learn to sign in the future. What a skill to have and helps make other people's day that bit easier.

Finally on the train, I was sitting with three other girls my own age and we were all knackered. It was the final leg of the journey for most people. Half way down the country, near Portlaoise I think, I struck up a conversation with the girls who were sisters just back for Christmas from London. What caught my interest is that they were intermittently speaking Irish in amongst the flow of English. Speaking the odd cúpla focal here and there isn't weird but they were really able to speak it. I found out that they were Gaelgóirs, people whose first language is Irish, from Kerry. What followed was an hour long conversation about the state of affairs in Ireland and why everyone is leaving. One of the girls was about to leave everything behind and head to Australia. Her sister wasn't going to be long after her. Add to this, the actual train conductor sitting down for a chat and by 11:50pm that evening, he and I were the only two people left in my carriage. I nearly hopped off the train with glee but of course, no family were to be seen.

I knew I had about 5 minutes before they would be there so I ran to the bathroom and changed into a Santa outfit we had used in a bar a few weeks previously. Just as I left the bathroom, who did I see but my sister. Then my brothers. And then mummy herself. What was obviously planned as a amorous and poignant welcome home fell apart as they all burst out in laughter. I think it was the beard that did it. Hugs exchanged and a few jokey words, we all piled into the car and home. I literally remember hugging my Dad and the dogs and collapsing into bed. And it felt like I never left. Lady was curled up at my feet, Bart outside my door and everyone went to bed. The next day was the 22nd and I was leaving from Dublin on the 29th. One week to do everything I needed to. I made a mental list. That is a list in my head, not a list that was mental in it's content.

1. Help the family prepare for Christmas.
2. Buy a Christmas tree and decorate it.
3. Catch up with friends.
4. Catch up with family.
5. Exchange stories.
6. Plan St. Stephen's Night (26th December)
7. Wrap gifts.
8. Sleep.
9. Eat as much Irish food as I could.
10. Get in as many hugs as I could.

Easy peasy?! Except for number 3. The 22nd was spent doing #1 and #2. The 23rd was dedicated to #7, #4, #5, #1 and #6. I knew I would be pushing it trying to see everyone. The 24th, 25th and 26th are considered family days. The 28th was re-packing day. Which left the evening of the 23rd and the 27th. And I love so many people! This includes Megan, Ciara, Dee and oh, you guys know who you all are! 

On the 23rd, I had miraciously arranged to have dinner in Cork with 2 of my lovely friends, Sus and Soph. Sus would collect me from my house after a day of Christmas tree decorating and gorging on USA biscuit tins. We'd drive to the city and go to our favourite restaurant Café Mexicana. Except that Sus started acting weird. Verrrrrrrrry weird. Soph was "running late" so we went into Penney's/Primark. I hadn't much money with me. Penney's + No money = Hell. No sooner were we in there, then Sus was dragging me back out so we made our way down Carey's Lane and inside. Up the stairs we went where I expected to see a few couples and Soph sitting in the corner. Oh no. Not at all. That'd be too easy. We only have Sarah in Cork for a few days so let's maximise embarrassment and surprise her with 10 of her nearest and dearest all sitting at a long, ornated table with huge smirks with a belated birthday party. Thanks guys. 

I hate attention. I hate getting presents. I go bright red. Which is exactly what happened but hey, after half an hour, I think I managed to restore normal-ish skin tone. Once I got over the initial shock, we all had a big natter. While only short conversations, I did manage to at least get an overview of how everyone was doing and what they were getting up to. Ciara only had an hour to spare but I was delighted to see you! I hope Eilis didn't mind driving up again! We had delicious Mexican food (as always) and headed to the grimy and beloved Bróg for  a few pints which turned into more pints and then I ended up seeing even more people I hadn't in nearly years (perils of travelling for uni). While I didn't get to catch up properly with everyone, I appreciated it so much and went home with a huuuuuuuuuuuge smile. Dee brought me home. Thanks Dee. You are a trooper. 

Christmas with the family was mighty craic. We did the usual. Watched old movies, Christmas variety shows from the 70's, helped with the desserts, scavenged to find the table cloth, wrapped our pressies, didn't go to Mass (we always seem to miss it), had a day of dancing to Wham! and Shakin' Stevens, ate what felt like a ton of turkey and ham and after dinner, had the gift giving ceremony which is my favourite part. Not because of what I receive but to see the looks on other's faces when they see what I've gotten them. My sister got treated to a load of Forever 21 bits and bobs (There's one in Ireland. I live 100m from one in Vienna). Lovely lovely lovely. Lubbly jubbly even. I'll never get over the sheer excitement of Santa Claus though. Who does really?

St. Stephen's Night came rolling around. Now every year it is a bloodbath trying to get in somewhere for St. Stephen's. People haven't been to a pub in about 2 days, after spending copious amounts of time in close quarters with their loved ones and thus, want  need to go out with their friends. Every year since we turned 18, myself and my home ladies from our town have not gone to the city for fear that it would be totally jammers. Instead, we have always ventured to the one pub in town that caters for younger people. Last year, that turned out to be an absoluttttttte joke. I am talking about queueing in the rain for two hours and just giving up. So for 2011, we threw caution to the wind and hit C-town. And you know what? It turned out to be an absolute laugh! Well, until someone suggested that we have absinthe before we got out of the car. We all know who couldn't handle it, don't we?! Regardless, we battled on to the Bróg until about 11pm and proceeded to Rearden's. And aside from losing one or two people, we had a grand time! Not too packed at all! Good music! Ok-ish priced drinks. Grand job. The hangover the next morning probably wasn't contributory to my well-being the next morning as I had to go to Cork and bid farewell to a good friend who was jetting off to New Zealand. He was in as bad a state as I was so we literally spent 4 hours in a bar/restaurant, moving very slowly and catching up.

And that was it. The next morning I was on the 5am train back to Dublin, to go through the same rigmarole all over again. I finally collapsed onto my bed in my Vienna student accommodation at 8pm that night. I didn't linger over my thoughts of home because I was already missing it and  with New Year's Eve only being a day away, I just battled on. 

But I've written enough here to give even me a headache but woe, that is the depth of my procrastination and I was determined to bring you all up to speed. I'm knackered now though so I'll tackle the next 3 months during the week when I'll no doubt be staring at my thesis while pondering about sticking needles into my eyes... I jest... I think. 

Over and out readers. Hope ye like the new look!

Here's the customary end of post songs. Today we have "Cough Syrup" by Young and the Giant, "Off the Wall" by Yuksek and "Midnight City" covered by The Knocks and Mandy Lee.

See...

Stephansdom, Vienna.

The projections were absolutely breath-taking on the walls. It made it even more amazing to look at and highlighted all the statues that otherwise woul have been lost in amongst the grey of it all.

S[n]o[w] cold

It snowed for the first time this year [and most of last year] in Vienna today. We were getting impatient so last week we finally went sledding outside of the city. 

It was freezing. Never underestimate the power of a good snow blizzard and ALWAYS wear two pairs of socks. Unfortunately, the feckin' gondolas/cable cars stopped running due to the wind you will see above so we weren't able to reach the top of the 5km long sledding stretch so we had to CLIMB about 150m up this really steep ski slope to even try and get any bit of a run. It obviously is steeper than the sledding course and we only had about three gos but jaysus, CRAIC galore! 

My favourite moment was sitting ready to go with some friends, two of us on one sled and two on the other. ONE, TWO, THREE, GOOOOOOOOOOOO! Off we went screaming our hearts out, trying to steer this piece of wood until we see the other sled passing us out but with only one person on it. Poor Melissa hadn't had time to sit down and was still at the top of the slope, legs posed to sit, in shock. It was so misfortunate and hilarious, Anna and I nearly crashed. I repeat, CRAIC.

The Erasmus crew also gave us some beers and vodka on the bus home and well... that lead into us singing "Total Eclipse of the Heart", "The Irish Rover" and "Bohemian Rhapsody" to much applause. To be repeated.

Also, amazing picture of your grandparents, Ciara. Like wow. They look so happy. I'm pretty sure my grandparents hate [I could say love/hate...] each other and my granny never had the legs for a skirt like that. As for Brand New, I remember ye sneaking in Hannah on the receipt of the ticket or something like that into one of their gigs?!  And "The Devil and God are raging inside of me" is one of my favourite albums eveeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeer".

S

Rockin' Around The Christmas Sled

I'm broke. And sleepy. And procrastinating quite a bit. But none of that matters when next Thursday, we are going ... SLEDDING! What a fine Austrian tradition this will be!

Check it out!

Don't they look like they are having LOTS of fun! Especailly Walt Disney in that last picture. I find the advert for sleds, which states "The only sled girls can control properly", quite funny. It was obviously penned before the days of sled equality. The only worrisome thing is that it'll be dark by the time we get there and there is free alcohol on the bus there which sounds like a recipe for disaster but that's what happens on Erasmus trips! We'll be going outside of Vienna to a place called Semmering so it's not the Alps but looks cool enough. Ha. Get it. Cool enough? I'm SO witty.

I'd better go do scccccchtuff like practise yodelling so peace out friends, readers and random people who apparently quite like Bryan Ferry, based on our post stats. Any tips on what one should wear sledding would be much appreciated!

Ciao bellas,

S

December in Vienna/ Dezember in Wien

WARNING: THIS POST IS LONG!

So it's December and amazingly enough, there hasn't been any snow in Vienna! Yet, I hear it's snowing in Ireland. Roles reversed much? Thanks for all the birthday wishes, dear friends and family. I received the loveliest postcard from Megan today. I got so excited when I saw the French post mark. I also had some chocolate sent from home and a lovely party here in Wien with a plethora of different nationalities; English, Greek, German, Austrian, Turkish, Hungarian, Czech, American ... the list goes on! We also visited the lovely vibrant Naschmarkt that day and did a little hangover-curing walk through Vienna the day after! 

This past week has been very hectic with my exams looming and the project work mounting and my time in work nearly killed me on Saturday. I managed a 9 hour shift alone at the bar on a MANIC Saturday evening. What's grinding my gears at the moment is how Austrians don't seem to know how to queue and are quite merciless if for some reason, we've run out of glasses or desserts. Take a chill pill guys! However, I think I have Christmas week off and last night, I booked my train tickets from Dublin to Cork for the week so CELEBRATIONS are in order! I can't wait for that.

Aside from the party, I've been to a great Beisl [traditional Austrian pub] called Kolar which we never would have found if it hadn't been for a lovely work colleague of mine. It was tucked away in the inner city on a street that translates as Shamrock Street - It must be fate! We'd gorgeous freshly baked flat bread that they bake in an oven beside the bar in front of you - Highly recommended. This was after a tough 8 hour shift so I was pretty knackered but the good times kept on coming as someone suggested that we go ice-skating. Now in Ireland, the only ice-rinks we have are put up temporarily during December and are generally too small and over-crowded. Most people tend to spend most of their time clinging to the sides and you are considered to be unreal at ice-skating if you can manage to go a few laps without skidding on your bum.

Nooooooooooot the case in Austria. Oh no. I thought I had some serious skills, being able to rollerblade too but it soon became apparent that Austrians take to winter sports like the Irish take to drinking or making eejits out of themselves. There were people doing spins and skids and one legged runs and two kids, who were chasing each other around as if they were playing on sand. Bit of a hit to the ole' self esteem. Doesn't help much either when there's a DJ in the middle playing " Wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle YEAH", causing you to shake your hips, lose your balance and go FLYING onto the ice and skid forwards, glasses falling off your face and spinning in a circle beside you. Mortification. Mind you, there were some lovely Austrian boys on hand to offer a hand [through their laughter]. We ended the night in a crackin' Australian bar called The Travelshack which should have been a quiet drink and turned into people dancing on pool tables and a game of Kings.

Yesterday was spent at the world's oldest zoo, Tiergarten Schoenbrunn, which is amazing! It is huge and literally has every animal you could think of. It's probably not the best time of year to be visiting as many of the animals are in hibernation but some of my highlights were the pandas, the spectacled bears, the sealions and the giraffes. We also saw an anaconda. I'm sorry. How people have any affection to snakes mystifies me. It was HUGE. And it's tongue kept slipping out. Ughgggghghghg. 

 Have you ever seen a spectacled bear? They are amazing! They are so called as the different colouring on their faces makes it appear that they wear glasses.  The translation in German is literally "Brillebaer". 

Special mention goes to the penguins too. They are unintentionally hilarious and very regal looking. The zoo is located beside the magnificent Schoenbrunn Palace which has a really rich history and some impressive gardens and views of the city. 

Unfortunately, it was quite dark by the time we left the zoo so we just headed to a Christmas market [they are all OVER the place] and drank some punsch. Well, I tried. I ordered what I thought was white hot chocolate. No. It was punsch with chocoalte and cream on top. Have you ever licked a dog? I haven't either but I'm pretty sure it would have tasted like that.

Right. I'm done! I've a test to study for. Well done on TP, Ciara. Megan, your address please! Dee, there'll be something in the post for you as soon as I figure out where I can buy stamps!

S